She is a little cutpurse female gnome that I sculpted for my Etsy shop. I offer her painted or unpainted, as a D&D sized miniature, or display sized–even Garden sized!
Are you a discerning gamer who demands the best? Do you want to take your tabletop experience to the next level? Look no further! My handcrafted gnomes are designed to bring a touch of magic to your game, with intricate details and textures that will amaze your players.
By choosing my gnomes, you’re not just buying a miniature – you’re making a statement. You’re showing that you have an eye for quality, a passion for the game, and a desire to create an unforgettable experience for your fellow players. My gnomes are not mass-produced or generic; each one is carefully crafted with love and attention to detail, ensuring that every aspect is a delight to behold.
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a gamer looking to upgrade your game, my gnomes are the perfect choice. They’ll add a personal touch to your game, spark conversations, and inspire new adventures. So why settle for ordinary when you can have extraordinary? Choose my gnomes and elevate your game to new heights! #GnomeMiniatures #TabletopGaming #MiniatureCollectors #GamingWithStyle
When it comes to 3Dprinting there is a lot of confusion about resolution. It is important in different contexts, so I hope this post can help to demystify it.
Scanning is a method to capture geometry from real world objects to create a digital model. Here is a scan of my head, using a structured light scanner attached to an iPhone. On the right hand side, you can see a triangulated mesh of polygons. This mesh is the 3D model. Notice the lack of details in the face, especially the eyes. the Mesh is composed of 53,000 polygons.
This Gonk Gnome is a digitally sculpted model for 3Dprinting. The STL file is what is used by the slicer to output the instructions to the printer. This polygon mesh is 338,813 polygons. The resolution is higher than the scan–meaning that the triangles are smaller, and denser.
In ZBrush, the original mesh that is the actual digital sculpture, is over 4 MILLION polygons! If you notice those darker gray areas around the eyes, those are even denser polygons than the rest of the mesh. Sculpting digitally, you can zoom in and add more detail, and resolution (to the limits of the computers memory).
The reason that the STL file is less polygons is that it is decimated from the higher resolution mesh. A 3Dprinter slicer will have a hard time with a mesh over 1 million polygons, so you have to balance the amount of detail you can reproduce with those constraints and the intended size that you will print.
Here is a picture of that model 3Dprinted in resin. the layer thickness for a resin printer is .05mm (about the thickness of a human hair), so you need a magnifying glass to be able to see the layer lines…
3Dprinters are advertised with 2K, 4K, 8K, 12K (even higher has been announced), which is referring to how dense the pixels in the LCD screen are. This can get confusing, because a small screen size that is 2K might have the same density of pixels as a larger screen that is 4K. So, in choosing between the different resolutions offered in 3Dprinters, it is important to choose a size that fits your needs, then worry about how much resolution in in that LCD screen. Ideally, the XY resolution (the LCD screen) and the Z (the layer height) should be the same.
This Gonk adventurer is the same model, but at different scales. the density of the polygons is high enough that even when printed larger the detail is there. If the gonk was printed even smaller than a D&D miniature, you will start to lose the finer details as the size of the triangles of the polygon mesh become smaller than the XYZ resolution of the printer. If you printed larger than a figurine, like a 4′ or taller statue, the size of the triangles of the polygon mesh would become visible.
Because there can be so much variation in size for the 3Dprints, I usually will decimate the mesh to between 300,000 and 600,000 polygons. That provides enough resolution to the polygon mesh, so that the detail is there even if you need some 2′ Guardin’ Gnomes.
This is an illustration by John Bauer from a fairytale about Leap the Elk and Little Princess Cottongrass, written by Helge Kjellin and illustrated by John Bauer (1913). I thought it would be a fun project to try to make a sculpture based on this story.
concept sketch
I started with some mesh balloons in ZBrush to block out the basic moose shape. Next I used Dynamesh to merge it together and sculpted the details. I made a ZSphere armature for the princess to give myself a basemesh to sculpt.
After the digital sculpture is finished, I use a resin 3Dprinter to reproduce. Next is a 3 step process of applying a bronze metal coating and acid patina.
This edition is limited to only 20 pieces, and comes with a certificate of authenticity. It is 6″ tall and about 8″ from end to end.
PuzzleLock Dungeon II is a 3Dprintable terrain system for tabletop RPGs like Dungeons and Dragons or Pathfinder. Bring your miniatures game to life with this immersive, detailed dungeon.
There are 47 unique STL files in this set. Not just tiles–print entire rooms and corridors! The innovative offset wall design gives you the full grid to play on. The walls are 32mm tall (overall 35mm), so they will not obscure the miniatures. The pieces connect with my original PuzzleLock. No clips, no magnets, they connect like a jigsaw puzzle!
The doorways feature working doors! There is a pin edge to the doors, with corresponding holes in the doorways.
Pillars, stairways and rubble are scatter terrain. Place them directly on top of the tiles to create unique rooms.
There are also many tiles to let you build any room that your dungeon may require.
The entire PuzzleLock Dungeon II set of STL files is exclusively available on Cults3D for only $10.
As the year wraps up, I have been thinking about projects that have been on the back burner that I would like to finish. I have been working on freelance projects the past few months, so haven’t had as much time to devote to them…
I also want to start using this blog, instead of social media. I am going to post new work here first, and then share it to social media instead of directly posting it there. I have been following the rise of AI over the past year, and companies like Meta are scraping up every piece of content to train them. It is very disheartening to me.
At long last, I am ready to launch the new version of my Puzzlelock Dungeon 3Dprintable terrain. I have test printed it and am painting it up for photos, and will put it up on Cults3D soon.
Another project that I want to finish is my interpretation of a fairytale about Princess Cottengrass. In it, the young princess goes on an adventure riding on the back of a moose elk named Leap.
This is my concept sketch. Below is a screenshot from ZBrush of a work-in-progress of the moose. This will be a resin sculpture with a bronze finish, for my Etsy shop.
I was sitting on the edge of the woods, smoking my pipe. listening to the wind in the trees and watching a couple of squirrels. I had work that I needed to do, but I decided that I also needed a break.
That became my inspiration for a new gnome. I did a few doodles and came up with a pose that I liked. I also wanted to have him on a mossy log or branch, so I adjusted the sketch until I had a final concept.
The first thing that I did in ZBrush was to rough in where the gnome would be sitting, and also match the diameter of the base with a 3″ wood base that I planned to use.
I exported my sketch from Procreate with a transparent background as a .PNG file. This allows me to load the image into Spotlight inside of ZBrush and float it above my workspace as a reference, without the background obscuring my viewport. The Stump is drawn with Zspheres to match the sketch.
After converting it into a mesh, I sculpted the wood and extracted some bark. then once that was ready, I masked and extracted the areas that I wanted to be covered with moss. To create the moss texture, I used surface noise and inflate.
I started blocking in the gnome with two spheres and a cone. I used the curve tube brush to draw the legs and arms (you can see the right arm in this screenshot is still just a tube). Those simple shapes are subdivided and dynameshed so that the details can be sculpted. the beard area is just roughed in, because I know I will be building it later.
Here is a closeup of that arm. The arm and hand are finished, holding the pipe. I’ve extracted geometry to make the sleeve. I will use the cloth move brush to shape it before sculpting the details and stitching…
The beard is made using the Alpha curve brush. Each lock of hair is drawn as a curve, with an irregular shaped black and white image defining the cross-section of the lock of hair as it is extruded along the curve. The lock is tapered at one end, and because the stroke is a curve, you can manipulate it, twist it and move it into place before you commit to it.
Here is the model, 3Dprinted in resin. I was very pleased that all of my mushrooms printed and nothing broke off! Printed with Mighty4K using 3DRS Hard Grey resin.
Using an airbrush, I primed the model in black. Then I used grey primer at a downward angle to simulate ambient lighting. The “zenithal” priming brings out the details and will enhance the painting, even though it will be covered.
I have made a step-by-step tutorial, if you are wanting to paint your own gnomes–Here is the link
Here is the finished gnome, enjoying his pipe!
I hope that you enjoyed this look at the process. If you are into 3Dprinting, you can get the STL to print your own on my Patreon. If you would like to just buy the finished figurine, I have them available (unpainted, bronze, hand-painted) on my Etsy shop.
I was talking to a friend of mine today about a 3Dprinting project. He was unaware that I had a 15 year background in design for manufacturing, and I realized that maybe it would be a good idea to talk about CAD (Computer Aided Design), and how I integrate it with some of the work I create for 3Dprinting.
When creating an object that is to be manufactured, or that has to mate up with other components, It is critical to use CAD to make sure that all of your dimensions and tolerances are going to work. Much of my freelance work combines CAD with digital sculpting, allowing me the best of both worlds–especially when dealing with 3Dprinting.
Part of a Tap Handle designed in RhinoIncendiary Tap Handle for Big Bridge Manufacturing
For this tap handle for Big Bridge Design, which is manufactured with resin 3Dprinting, the handle needs to mate up with a brass insert nut, so that the handle can be screwed onto the beer tap. Using Rhino I am able to utilize the clients 2D Illustrator file (.ai) to create a 3D model with the basic graphic design elements at the precise size, and also create the threads to receive the metal insert. The skulls are sculpted in ZBrush.
Turning the World of Calindria into a 3D model
This globe project was to create a 3Dprintable world for Noble Dwarf, the publisher of a tabletop role-playing setting Legends of Calindria. It is not too difficult to generate terrain based on the clients map, but it also needed to be printed in sections and have keys for assembly.
I created a globe in CAD and split it into sections. then used ARRAY commands to position all of the interlocking keys. The surfaces of the sections were subdivided and projected against the terrain in ZBrush to get the final shape.
Jewelry is also something that is a good opportunity to mix sculpted elements with CAD. This set of cuff links and pendant for 44th Legacy combined a relief sculpture from ZBrush with elements modeled in Rhino. The final pieces were created in bronze with the lost-wax process.
cuff links and pendant for 44th Legacy
Another jewelry example combines a conch shell with other elements for a custom bracelet for BEACH BY JEWEL
These are some gnomess miniatures that I made, which you would not be embarrassed to give your daughter for her D&D character. There is no shortage of female character minis out there, but many of them have a “pinup” aesthetic… I’m not against that, but I wanted to make my figures attractive rather than sexy.
The Gnomess Cleric was my first girl gnome,created to go with my other Guardin’ Gnomes.
This Gnomess Warrior has scalemail armor, helm and shield. She also has a Scarlet Johannson smile!
The Gnomess Ranger has studded leather armor, short sword and bow. She is super cute–but I may think so because she looks like my granddaughter!
All of these girl gnomes are available on my Etsy shop. Scales are 28mm D&D, 32mm Heroic, 54mm, 75mm, and 100mm.
I made these Christmas gnomes last year. This is an example 3Dprinted by Mad Max Miniatures,and Painted by Vincent T. (@scales20.100 on Instagram). I have these Figurines and Ornaments now available on my Etsy shop! You don’t have to learn about 3Dprinting or have access to one, because I take care of that for you!
If you do have a 3Dprinter, you can get the STL files on Cults3D and make gifts for all your friends and family.
These gnomes are available as 4″ figurines or 3″ ornaments. They are solid resin and unpainted. You can paint them with inexpensive acrylic craft paints. This might be a fun holiday project or activity for the family!
They stack just like children’s blocks, and are hours of fun! You can even play D&D!
The idea for this is pretty simple. Building blocks for tabletop terrain, with stone textures on all sides. Since most Dungeon Masters don’t build elaborate terrain for their games, I wanted to create something better than just marking out the terrain with a dry erase marker, but not as complicated or expensive as buying Dwarven Forge tiles. The DMs that I know either use only theater-of-the-mind or will use minis only for a tactical combat.
dungeon blocks
Another question that I’ve heard from people interested in using terrain is,”how do you store it?” Huge sets of interlocking tiles can be bulky and difficult to transport–I wanted to make a Dungeon in a box. You can fit all of your Dungeon Blocks in a small box (or treasure chest) that is easy to bring to the game!
There are only 10 basic pieces. All 3Dprintable, so that you can make as many as you want. They are all based on a 1″ grid, so they are perfect for Dungeons & Dragons or any other tabletop RPG.
The “Stair Jack” is a small platform for miniatures, which fits the tread pattern of the steps. It will let you place a mini anywhere on the stairs.
The Stair Jack is a platform for miniatures to place anywhere on the stairs!
Zandoria Studios 